Mary: I WILL go back to Lisboa one day...

In other words, I loved Lisbon. It is my favorite city I’ve traveled to thus far. Let me attempt to explain why:

So we got there EARLY Saturday morning, (7:30), went to our hostel called the Pensao Royal: one of my reasons why I loved this visit so much. Paula, a rough sort-of lady with a smoky voice and gray roots set off by long, raven-black hair, greeted us with, “you’re early,” and a stern look. I began to panic because it was I who had chosen the hostel for its superb ratings on Hostelbookers…and then she croaked out a laugh, took our suitcases and shooed us away, with café recommendations, until she had our room completely ready. I like a lady who can tease!

We decided just to stay out after a quick breakfast and took the tram with the intention of visiting the Lisbon Palace. Another reason I love Lisbon: tram transportation. The things were built in the early 1900s and they were wonderfully creaky. Lisbon is geographically hilly—like really hilly. So we jolted around on this tram, up-and-down, for a good twenty minutes and I loved every second of it! One really gets to see the city this way.

The palace was great—pretty much like every other European palace, though. Built by the moors. Tall walls for defense. The highest point of the city for the advantage during battle. All the same facts, it was really just seeing the city itself that was amazing. I was telling Andy and mom that the architecture was like a blend of French, Spanish, California, and 1920s American Boardwalk. Sounds funky, but really cool. Crazy colors and gritty graffiti everywhere. Constant hills and stairs so the calves and thighs are always being used! All kinds of palm trees and plants that I’ve never seen before! Man, I just loved it. And the weather is amazing there, even when it’s raining. Apparently it stays 60s/70s and warm breezy pretty much year round.

Anyways, so we visited the palace and then this eerie monastery, not the most famous one, though. It was completely white with blue tiling, and I think we were the only ones visiting because it was stark quiet. The eeriest thing though was that in all of the rooms, there were tombs of the monks! And we walked into one room and there was a shrouded figure bent over one of the tombs and we freaked out because we thought it was a ghost. So scary. But cool!

Then we found a little lunch place. I had the most AMAZING cheese ever—called Portuguese Mountain Cheese with homemade pumpkin jam. I was so happy. Of course the Brits had spaghetti and a hamburger…it amazes me that all of my fellow travelers are so unadventurous with food. Seriously.

We decided to go and officially check-in at the hostel. Our room rocked. High-ceilings with a wall-length windows, glossy wood floors, butterfly and flower stickers all over the walls with different funky wallpaper on each wall. This woman is amazing—all the rooms were quaint like this. She runs the whole place by herself and only sleeps two hours a day! She can’t be healthy, but she obviously loves what she does. We were just settling in for a siesta when we hear a knock on the door, and there stood Paula with a warm pan in her hand, full of home baked pastries…!!?? That doesn’t happen in hotels, which cost twice as much! Amazing. I was already looking forward to see what kind of breakfast this woman would whip up for us…

We got showered and went off to find a restaurant Paola recommended for dinner. We passed so many nice-looking places and then we got to the street where our restaurant was supposed to be located—straight trashy and daunting. Laura was not having it. But we pushed her along just to check it out, and what a pleasant surprise met us on the next corner. A little hole-in-the-wall, authentic Portuguese restaurant with candle-lit tables and a piano crooning in the corner. We went in and I had one of the BEST meals I’ve had in my entire life. So, Portugal is well known for its fish dishes. I told the owner I wanted anything spicy, because Spain doesn’t do spicy and I feel deprived. He brought out this large baked bowl heaping with spiced cod, stewed onions, and saucy potatoes with hard-boiled eggs layered on top. I’m salivating all over my computer typing this—SO GOOD. With a glass of the Portuguese house red wine, and I was in heaven. Now, when the bill came out I cried a little, (not really), but it was well worth it.

We went home fat and happy and slept the night away. I woke early because my bed was closest to the door and I could smell the breakfast Paola was cookin’ up. (Sorry to write two paragraphs in a row about food—but you KNOW that’s a big part of my European experience). The Brits sleep in late so I was just like “PEACE,” and walked outside the room into the loveliest little living room I’ve ever seen—exactly what I want the living/family room in my first apartment to look like. Full of flowers, colors, and little chotchkeys everywhere. And the breakfast spread was set up like a true little tea party—there were cakes everywhere! Lemon cake, coconut cake, Nata Nata cake, chocolate cake, marble cake, etc. Then there were pigs in a blanket, Spanish tortilla, keesh (sp?), cereal, tea, coffee, yogurt, crepes, fruit salad, chicken pot pies—EVERYTHING! She makes all of this stuff before we wake up in the morning. Haha. I stuffed myself while watching MTV, which was playing on a big screen. Forgot how much I miss trash T.V.

Then we had a big day of visiting the famous monastery, a modern art museum, and finally, the beach: CasCais. It was a beautiful beach and the beach town was so “posh,” as Laura and Lucy deemed it. We spent a few hours there and caught a train back to Lisbon, then rested a bit before dinner, which was another great success. We sat outside, this time, and we were seated on a hill with a gorgeous view of the palace and the moon sliver and the stars. I had the house “Fish Rice,” which was basically like a jambalaya with fish—very yummy. Lucy and I tried “Ginginha,” a famous Portuguese liquor. It’s made from soured cherries and was quite nice going down. Learned a Portuguese fact: “Port,” the type of liquor, began in PORTugal.

Again, went back to our cozy beds and again woke up to Paola’s masterpiece breakfast, and then we were off to the airport! Great weekend, great city. I want to see all of Portugal one day.

Other than that, getting ready to head home soon! I am taking one more trip by myself to Alicante, which is on the eastern coast of Spain. Known for its beach, so that’s what I plan to do—lie on the beach all day. The Gomez’s leave for vacation this coming weekend, so I will be home alone over the weekend/my last week. Sad…I am going to miss them so much! I liked having little sisters—that’s the only type of sibling I don’t have. But it will be nice to see my big sister, my little brother, my big brother, my big brother-in-law, and all my sista friends! Anyways, our last lesson is Thursday so I’m planning on buying ice cream and popcorn and watching an American film. Or maybe Veronica Mars, even though they “don’t get it.”

I hope everyone is enjoying the spring so far! So happy I’m coming back for that season. Found a shirt today that says, “Happy Season Starts”—might have to buy it. It’s the funniest thing to walk into Spanish clothing stores and read all of their shirts—they’re all written in English but they usually make no sense or have an extra letter or are in the wrong tense!

Going to a lot of museums this week/weekend, and then I have to say goodbye to Lucy, probably my closest friend here. L She is coming to America, though, for a road trip! So you all will have to meet her.

Okay, that’s all. Thanks for reading about how much of a fat kid I am—I really did write two huge paragraphs about food, haha. Oh well.

Love,

Mary